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What your leaf is telling you in Flower

Im gonna keep it simple cause Vegetation stage is a piece of cake!

Flower stage is where you separate the men from the mice. 

ive seen alot of people who get to late flower with very little tip burn of course you can expect some discoloration in the later stages. but i always seem to burn my plants in flower more than id like to..

Open for discussion:

I have been considering cutting WAY back on base flowering nutes and only using finisher like MOAB or Cha Ching (with terpinator)

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Replies (14)
    • I usually don't see the tip burn till late flower on my plants, but this subject has crossed my mind plenty of times before - great question sub. 

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      • I was always told use half of recommended dosage.

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        • I use ppm. The suggested nutrient schedules, I was told, are the ratio of nutrients. When using the nutrients I follow the ratios and lower the ppms to what I need. Most of the schedules have a recommended ppm and there's where it gets screwy. If your in soil, your ppm will be such and such. In coco, something else. And the age of your plants will determine ppm too little girls will need less, older ones more.

          I think everyone finds a sweet mix of their own making or adopted someone else's that works for them. I recently found a nice mix using gh nutes, made a little mod in it and I think it has been doing well. May do some changes but I will keep the main gh nutes ratios the same, also the calmg and si ratio is pretty standard. It's the adding in of extras like rapid start or I like to use open sesame in early flower

          No matter what mixes I have used when I didn't watch the ppm I burned them. 

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          • yeah i have using high ppm's  i think i will keep it on the low side this next grow .....

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            • i use half dose to and its still on the high side sometime so i add water to bring it into range.doesanyone on hear stop using the cal/mag at the end of flower in coco?

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              • i have been using the same make on my all my watering/feeding buckets, jugs for ever three watering ago i raised that water level n each and brought the ppm's down 2 the low 600 range plus all get a little more water i am down or should i say to 6 days b 4 next watering so i am very close 2 the end i could have a justed the nutes much easer just adding to the next line wazn't very much and i hit it the ppm first go each time the ppm is very close ....  my 2 cents ...  i have been using an eye dropper 2 measure the nutes and started weighing them dam much easer had the scale bout 2 years didn't think bout it very sad but were doing that now   undecided 

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                • I think I saw on Dude Grows that Guru said the optimal PPM for both veg and flower is around 800 ! I always thought it was 1200-1300 for flower . I've since lower my PPM's in flower to around 800-900, and seen good results. I couldn't agree more with Sub when he said " Flowering stage is where you separate the men from the mice!"

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                  • it's where the rubber meets the road Chubby441! getting a consistent 12/12 for 10-12 weeks is quite a minor miracle! not to mention the rest of the environment and the feeding etc....

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                  • @ SD...I use Ca for the entire grow, but the last 3 weeks I cut down to under 100ppm's .

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                    • I start tapering off the calmg towards the end si too and of course the whole mix starts getting reduced, then down to nothing but water in the last week or 2.

                      800ppm depending on your mix, might be borderline and pushing it, 700 ppm for coco is the research recommendation for coco, but it will vary on plant and soil/soilless mix. since following the 600-700 for my nutes I haven't had any swings in deficiency's or slowing growth. some of the gurls probably would like a stronger mix and some a weaker, narrowing it to something they all like is the trick. of course if your into organic this is all different. I remember really abusing soil and it was very forgiving, coco not so much.

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                      • Thanks for the responses! i always start with store bought distilled water these days. I shake up my calmag before i add it. and add it directly to the gallon jug. then shake it up good and let it sit before i go to add my base nutrients. Shake A, then add. shake water to mix well and let it sit a few mins or so. Shake B then add to mix and let it sit. then i use my additives like bud candy or silica or hydroguard... depends where i am at in the grow..

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                        • I have been backing off of my base nutrients more and more lately in flowering and have been seeing better results. I do 100% believe in using MOAB as soon as I flip and towards the end of flowering. I use Beasty Blooms in the middle of that and it seemed to work well. You were really dialed in on your Cali Orange grow so it's kinda hard to argue with what you are doing! Lol

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                          • thanks for responding! I like to hear other growers strategy in flower..I kinda feel that i burnt that last SCRoG a bit more than i wanted to. one thing i like about MOAB is their NPK numbers (0-52-32) crazy numbers!!

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                          • I think its about finding the right balance of NPK & Cal Mag and figuring out what could be holding the other back. For years I thought burnt tips in flower was a sign of finding the max, now I think its a sign something blocked something else out and the plant too kin to much of it. These days I am starting to think deficiency may be a better tell tale sign of what the plant needs more of, its a lot easier to add than remove, but then you need to see if anything including PH is blocking it and causing the deficiency. Its fun to think about either way

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